By Butch Chaffer, with thanks to HMM’s Ray Bohacz for excerpts & ideas
I, as do most of us, do expect those who swing wrenches for a living to execute proper mechanical procedure and exhibit a level of basic automotive knowledge. And the same standard should apply to an enthusiast who works on his own car. The following is a list of major peeves (or big no-no’s) that have been noted over time while observing work by professionals and enthusiasts alike.

DIRTY CARBURETOR: When not clean and varnish-free, air bleeds, emulsion tubes and passages do not function as designed, and performance and engine drivability suffer. A gummy, dirty carb is commonly seen on beautifully detailed muscle cars that are driven. The pros aren’t immune either, as many times I’ve seen mechanics replace air filters and ignore the filthy carburetor underneath. Carb cleaner is still cheap and easy to use.

HANGING BRAKE CALIPER: Any mechanic worth his salt recognizes that a brake caliper is not meant to swing from a rubber brake line during repairs.  Use a wire, or rope, or bungee; anything to keep the strain off the hose. OK, some of you say “B.S., I’ve always done that with no problem”. Of course, the weakened crimp or slight hose stretch is never thought of when the hose fails a year later on a panic stop (musta’ been a rock or bad hose). But hey, you saved 2 minutes on the job.

HOISTING ENGINES: There are chains, straps, and steel cables meant to connect your prize to your hoist. OK, this is aimed mostly at the enthusiast, as most mechanics don’t want the liability. But using clothesline, fan belts, or romex house wire (yep, seen them all) to support a suspended engine really borders on gross stupidity. The obvious damage to the engine and/or vehicle when it breaks, and it will, is only surpassed by the potential injury to yourself or buddy (should one still be in the area). ‘Nuff said on that!!

WHEEL BEARINGS: Proper care is needed for long life of front wheel bearings; correct lubricant, adjusted to a specified pre-load, and kept in a clean environment when removed for brake service. Contamination by placing it on an old rag, inside a wheel cover, or around a dirty work area is a sure way to entice a future roadside replacement session, or worse. Wrap in a clean paper towel or virgin rag until ready for greasing and replacement.

TIMING LIGHTS: Unless you are working on a 1920’s, 30’s, or 40’s stocker, you have pretty much moved past mediocre ignition requirements on your ride. Modern automotive engines are amazingly efficient and powerful for their size. This is due in no small part to the precise spark control designed into these power plants. Long gone are the days of “timing by ear” for the best performance and drivability of your vehicle. Unless, of course, your expectations from that nice engine you installed is just “pretty close, good enough”. A decent timing light with a ‘dial-back’ feature is not expensive, is easy to use, and should be a part of every enthusiast’s tool box. Poor timing, even if not readily noticeable in your everyday driving, affects your exhaust emissions, gas mileage, plug life, oil life and even engine temp. Every decent mechanic and performance tech uses a timing light. It separates the winners from the losers. Even the experts aren’t that good at guessing.

DISTRIBUTOR CAM LUBE: Nothing wrong with that original classic that still uses points. In limited use of a few hundred miles a year they work fine. But a little maintenance knowledge is needed, especially for those who grew up with electronic ignitions and now have a classic with old school breaker points. The breaker arm on these points have, or should have, a felt pad that wipes the rotor cam ahead of the rubbing block. This pad contains lube that keeps the wear on the rubbing block to a minimum. Often this pad is missing or dry. It should be lightly coated with that grease in the little capsule that came with the points, as well as a thin film on the cam lobes, a must if the points have no pad. Point gap affects the timing and coil saturation, so maintaining proper gap over time is essential. The rubbing block can be worn away in a few hundred miles without proper lubrication. Lost that capsule? Auto stores such as NAPA have small tubes of distributor cam lube….a lifetime supply. Emergency alternative? Try a drop of engine oil off the dipstick onto your finger to apply a thin film in the cam lobe.

HAPPY MOTORING…..BE SAFE…..WORK SMART……HAVE FUN

It’s a new year and for most of us I think we are all glad to say good by to 2008.  We have a new president and a new economy to deal with in 2009.

For many of us , This economy is all that is on our minds.  It’s difficult to think of spending money on our rides worried about jobs, bills, our 401K’s, pensions, retirement, etc.    I say stop it!

Our rides give us enjoyment and should get our minds off of all this stressful stuff. Yes with money tight its sometimes impossible to go out in the garage and think of spending money on the old hot rod or classic. Many times just waxing or detailing our rides can make us feel good and  doesn’t cost much other then time.  Some of us have parts previous purchased in better times waiting to be installed. Go for it!  Get something done!

Last winter many of you know I lifted the body off my 55 sedan delivery, replaced the floor, and installed a completely new frame and driveline. During the year I made a list of things I wanted to do this winter. The list is extensive, but none of those items are getting done this year. Everything is on hold partially because of the economy and a host of other reasons.

Looking for a winter project i decided to help out a long time friend with his project a 39 Chevy Coupe. he has owned the car for about five years and had gathered parts for upgrading the front suspension, brakes, electrical wiring, wipers, a/c, defroster, and adding a keyless entry power door lock system.  We tried to get to his project last year over the winter but things just didn’t work out.

It didn’t look good for this year either, because he had to schedule major back surgery in November. After learning about his back surgery,  I asked him if I could take over his project and make it my winter project. He said yes and I got started in mid November. I am near completion of the now 4 month project. The project is coming together nicely and looks great. Best of all the project was done on someone else’s dime.

My point is real car guys love cars and even in these very tuff times you can stay busy and involved.  Find an inexpensive something to do on your ride, stay involved and try not to think about the poor economy.

See all of you and your cars throughout the year.

Submitted by Chuck Thomas

You may have heard about a new law that came into effect on February 10th. The law is a broad, sweeping law called the ‘Consumer Products Safety Improvement Act’ (CPSIA). The law was enacted as a knee jerk reaction by Congress to the importation of lead tainted toys from Mattel etc. The new laws give very strict guidelines that have had unintended consequences for many industries. Many metal alloys often contain lead. Engine casings on mini motorcycles, valve stems, spoke nipples etc all now fail the new standards. The fact that lead in metal alloys is ‘insoluble’ has escaped the Government and the CPSC. The lead content in alloys poses no health risks whatsoever. The law was entirely political, and will do little or nothing to protect our children. How many of us have seen kids sucking on motorcycles?

At this point in time, all motorcycle manufacturers have stopped selling youth motorcycles for kids age 12 or under. Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, KTM, Polini, Cobra, Polaris and OSET are all in the same boat. Any bicycle with 24″ wheels or less is now illegal to sell, although the bicycle industry appears to be ignoring the law. To be clear, none of the above companies are now selling youth motorcycles! You can NOT go to a Honda dealer and buy a CRF50, CRF70 or CRF80, or their youth ATV’s.

This is clearly a HUGE issue that needs to be fixed. With the economy in recession, what sense does it make to stop dealers selling inventory, and to effectively close thousands of American businesses, costing tens of thousands of jobs?

There is something we can do. Congressman Tom Self is a moto-Dad, and has taken up our cause. Tom has a standard letter that needs to be signed by every motorcyclist in the Country. If you go to http://www.tomself.com you will see the letter on the home page, and can sign & send in less than a minute. Here is a few links to the News…

http://www.tomself.com

http://chimotonews.blogspot.com/

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/29227011/

Oregon to prohibit sale of aftermarket auto parts (Write your congressman!)

Oregon Bill to Prohibit Sale of Aftermarket Parts to be Considered
by Committee on Tuesday, Feb. 10

The Oregon House Environment and Water Committee will consider legislation (H.B. 2186) to prohibit the sale and distribution of aftermarket motor vehicle parts if alternatives are available that “decrease greenhouse gas emissions from motor vehicles.” The bill is primarily focused on aftermarket tires and would authorize the Environmental Quality Commission to implement enforcement regulations, likely based on a rolling resistance calculation. The bill was introduced at the request of Governor Theodore Kulongoski.

We Urge You Contact All Members of the Environment and Water Committee (Contact Information Below) TODAY to Request Their Opposition to H.B. 2186

For those interested in attending the hearing to show your opposition, the committee will meet tomorrow, Tues., Feb.10, 2009 at 3:00 p.m.at the following address:

Oregon State Capitol
Hearing Room D, 900 Court St. NE
Salem, Oregon 97301

We Urge You to Contact the Members of the Environment and Water Committee (Contact Information Below) Immediately to Request Their Opposition to H.B. 2186

H.B. 2186 would regulate vehicle fuel economy, an authority reserved to the federal government.

H.B. 2186 could ban tires that may have improved performance, handling or appearance features, based solely on a rolling resistance rating. In addition, this program could easily distract consumers from focusing on more important safety issues such as tire inflation and overloading of vehicles.

H.B. 2186 would force consumers to purchase only original equipment manufacturer (OEM) tires because the program essentially exempts OEM-selected tires and unfairly implies that they are superior to aftermarket products.

H.B. 2186 could prohibit aftermarket parts designed to either personalize or optimize specific vehicle performance attributes including handling, towing, suspension, fuel economy, etc.

H.B. 2186 provides broad authority to government regulators and could limit a range of aftermarket parts currently available to consumers based on the subjective determination of government regulators.
DON’T DELAY! Please contact the House Environment and Water Committee immediately to urge their opposition to H.B. 2186.

Oregon House Environment and Water Committee

Representative Ben Cannon – Chair
Phone: 503/986-1446
Email: rep.bencannon@state.or.us

Representative Jules Bailey
Phone: 503/986-1442
Email: rep.juleskopelbailey@state.or.us

Representative Phil Barnhart
Phone: 503/986-1411
Email: rep.philbarnhart@state.or.us

Representative Cliff Bentz
Phone: 503/986-1460
Email: rep.cliffbentz@state.or.us

Representative Deborah Boone
Phone: 503/986-1432
Email: rep.deborahboone@state.or.us

Representative Vic Gilliam
Phone: 503/986-1418
Email: rep.vicgilliam@state.or.us

Representative Bob Jenson
Phone: 503/986-1458
Email: rep.bobjenson@state.or.us

Representative Jefferson Smith
Phone: 503/986-1447
Email: rep.jeffersonsmith@state.or.us

From the SEMA Action Network (SAN) comes this notice dated 2/10/2009. Due to the many thousands of SEMA members and SAN enthusiasts contacting their lawmakers, the “Cash for Clunkers” program has been removed from both the House and Senate versions of the economic stimulus bills pending in Congress. One proposal was an $8 billion program targeting SUVs and pickups of any year that made less than 18 mpg. You got a few grand to purchase a more fuel effecient baby truck/SUV…..your real workhorse would be crushed. The other proposal would have provided $16 billion worth of cash vouchers to individuals making less than $50,000 a year ($75K for families) who turned in their older vehicles for crushing. SEMA thanks all those who donated their time and effort to contact legislators. Keep vigilance on these legislators….. “crusher” programd do nothing to spur car sales, raise fuel economy or reduce emissions.

Classic Cars and Modern Engine Oils – Myths & Facts

I’m sure you have heard the talk, seen some e-mails and read some articles or blogs about current engine oils and it’s use in your classic or pre-80’s vehicle. If not, it goes like this………..

ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate, which contains phosphorous, plus some zinc & manganese) has been reduced to levels in modern engine oils that will cause rapid premature wear, even failure, of flat-tappet camshafts. This also affects some distributor gears and non-roller cam chains. ZDDP, more commonly called ZDP (zinc dithiophosphate) by automotive engineers, has been used in engine oils for over 60 years; the main purpose being an anti-wear, anti-friction barrier between the lifter crown and the camshaft lobe. The phosphorous is poison to catalytic converters, so the new “Starburst/ API SM” engine oils have the ZDP levels reduced to eliminate early catalytic failure, which is “certain death” to non-roller cam motors. Use of ZDP additives or diesel engine oils, which have several times more ZDP and are perfectly compatible with non-emission controlled engines, are necessary for these older motors to survive. Running with the low ZDP levels in modern “starburst” oils is almost like running without oil in your beloved classic!!!

OK, boys and girls. Let’s put this BS where it belongs…..in your trash bin. Here is some sound engineering information from Bob Olree of the GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group, starting with a little history of ZDP use.

Read the rest of this entry »

Reno car show,classic cars

Classics In Paradise
Car Show, 2008

It is time to get your classic or street rod ready for the beautiful ride to Reno for the annual Classics In Paradise Car Show, to be held June 21. If you haven’t attended this show before, it is definitely worth the trip. If coming from California, coming over on Highway 88 early in the morning is a beautiful cruise. If coming on I-80, it is still a nice drive through the mountains enjoying the Sierras. This show is from 3;00 p.m. to 9;00 p.m. so coming Saturday morning works well for a nice cruise. You can enjoy participating in the show and then relax for the rest of the evening. Then on Sunday, cruise home after a late-morning breakfast and enjoy your hot rod and the scenery.

The Classic Chevy Club of Reno is hard at work planning for this annual car show, which is again being held at The Atlantis Casino Resort Spa in Reno. The management from The Atlantis is working closely with us to make sure everyone has a pleasurable experience at this event. They are holding 30 rooms until May21 just for car show participants. Also, guests staying the night can rest easy knowing their security staff is closely watching the cars. The Atlantis is also planning on having their new addition to the facility open for everyone to see and use, including the beautiful new spa.

Some of the show highlights include; great raffles, including a 55 Chevy pedal car, many items donated by local merchants and club members, and more special prizes are being added daily. Every participant will receive this handsome tapestry tote bag with route 66 theme and pockets for cell phone and water bottle. Also, there will be Carolina BBQ, Johnny Starr, the DJ that works with H.A.N. events, Champion Chevrolet will display new vehicles, and we may also have a surprise that everyone will enjoy, (even most club members don’t know about this yet).

This show is open to ALL makes of vehicles up to 1979, including rat rods and under-construction. The judging for this year will be by peer-judging, except for the “Best of” awards. Again, club members’ cars will be parked separately from the entrants and are not part of the show. We have approximately 24 classes so bring out that classic, muscle car or street rod for everyone to see. Awards start at 8;00 p.m. We are limiting the number of entries to 300 and pre-entries are entered in 2 special drawings that are $50 each. Use this trip as a warm-up to H.A.N.

We hope to see you there. It’s never been easier to register. Just Click Here for our online registration form. and fill it out. For any questions, go to our website (which is very interesting and informative) www.classicchevyclubreno.com or call Randy at 775-636-2941 or 775-424-6824. See you in June, we ordered good weather for the event.

Remember, what happens in Reno, stays in Reno.

First Annual Golden State Classics Car Show: Paso Robles. Open to all cars 1979 or older; FREE ADMISSION; See Flyer; Contact: Cheryl; 805-238-4086;
Website www.goldenstateclassics.org

“September 13, 2008 “

FREE ADMISSION Open at 7:00 a.m. for parking

Pre-Register- limited space available (First 300 cars)

Class Awards, Special Awards, and Merchant Awards

Open to cars and trucks 1979 and older
Paso Robles Downtown City Park
Raffle and 50/50 Drawing
Also Special Raffle- Stainless Steel Tool Chest & 32”Flat Screen TV
Show Starts at 9:00 a.m. & 50/50 – Raffle
Judging 9:00 a.m. to Noon
Hotels in Paso Robles: -La Bellasera-206 Alexa Ct. 866-782-9669- Paso Robles Inn. 805-238-2660 Adelaide Inn, 805-238-2770 or 800-549-7276 -Best Western Black Oak Motor Lodge, 805-238-4740 Holiday Inn Express 805-238-6500-La Quinta, 3446 Buena Vista, 805-239-3004

No Entry Fee Required: - FREE Donations are greatly appreciated_______

Location: The Car Show will be located on 11th Street between Spring Street and Pine Street, in the park.

Restrictions: No Loud stereos or alcoholic beverages.
Information: Call –Brandy Johnson 805-712-6049 or Cheryl 805-238-4086

Old Car Emissions Exemption No Longer Threatened
in 8 California Counties

Congratulations! The California old car hobby convinced California Senate legislators to amend legislation (S.B. 1549) that sought repeal of the state’s current emissions test exemption for pre-1976 vehicles registered by new owners in the San Joaquin Valley Unified Air Pollution Control District. The District includes eight counties in California’s Central Valley. Under the original bill, after Jan. 1, 2009, new owners seeking to register a pre-1976 vehicle in these eight counties would have been subject to emissions tests for the life of the vehicle. Under the amendment, the repeal language was removed and the bill instead now requires the DMV to study the state’s special license plate programs and recommend improvements.

Thanks to all of you for contributing to this successful resolution!

Terms under which this service is provided to you: sema.org/disclaimer

SEMA’s mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765

Copyright 2007. Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA)

Food for Thought

For those of us who love Tri-Five Chevys it is often hard to think of our belovedClassic Chevy as just an investment.But for many of us these cars are a significant investment. I have bought and sold many 55-57 Chevys over the years and love every minute my time in the hobby. Recently in discussions with club members and others the increasing value of our tri-5’s came up. We would all hope for the increased value! But this may or may not necessarily be true. I attend 15-25 swap meets and car shows a year and like many of you watch Barrett-Jackson and other auctions on TV. I along with other long time tri-fiveenthusiasts continuously watch the investment potential of tri-fives. One would think classic chevys will always increase in value. But this is not always true. Many factors enter into the equation. Think about it? Quality of the car, style of the build, color of the exterior and interior, options and accessories, wheels and tires, age of the potential buyer, and other factors enter into the equation.

Lets look at these factors.

First–the quality of the car.:

Quality being fit and finish the most important. Many shows I attend I see beautiful tri-fives with bad fender gaps, bumpers aligned poorly, Missing bolts, and easily found parts absent. Simply making adjustments and installing bolts or missing parts add value.

Second, Style of the build:

Everyone should build the car of his or her dreams. But, I prescribe to the belief that if you build something different then the rest, you better be in love with it cause your keep’in it. Trends change

And value is in the current trend.

Third, color of the exterior and interior:

We all know about resale red. Paint it red and it will sell. I love red myself. But many other colors look great on the body and interiors of our tri-fives. Two tones are hot right now and show off those body lines. Lets just say a purple/pink exterior with bright yellow interior might not work.

Fourth, Options and Accessories:

Modernizing our cars with updates like fuel injection, electronic ignition, disc brakes, power steering, power windows, better cooling, air conditioning, etc. is always value added. But these upgrades tend to be expensive. We can only do what we can afford.

Fifth, Wheels and Tires:

Choose this update carefully! A very trendy update. Let me say, I’m not a big wheel and rubber band tire fan. Increasing rim diameter and tire size is a good thing, But consider the overall look and future trends.

Sixth, Age of potential buyer:

Probably the most important consideration with your investment if you wish to sell your ride in the future. I have noticed a leveling off of tri-five pricing this year. Yes, many factors are in play here. The economy, supply of vehicles, auction pricing, and age of buyers. What makes your tri-fiveinvestment so valuable? The desire to own it by others. Think about it? Who is that. Someone just like yourself. The popularity of any car is the desire of others to own it. Four years ago when I bought my current ride (a 1955 Chevy Sedan Delivery) The previous owner asked me why I wanted the car. I told him it made me think of my youth, good times brought back. Most car people I know want the cars of their youth. Mostly to bring back good memories. But consider we are all getting older and so is our potential buyers pool. The hot sellers right now are muscle cars of the 60’s and 70’s. That pool of buyers is generally younger then that of our Tri-fives. I’m not suggesting we don’t have great value in our tri-fives. But the pool of future buyers, I believe is getting smaller. Now don’t go out and sell your ride just think about your investment and its value as we move forward. Remember your choice should be what interests you.

Seventh—Other factors

Who knows what changes in the collector hobby are coming. I don’t! But, I can tell you I am encouraged by new youth at the shows interested in the older classics. I attended the Coast Mesa Show in Southern California a few weeks ago (3-16-08) and the Pleasanton show last weekend (3-29-08) Lots of customs and rat rods in attendance, most owned by younger rodders. I also attended the last Pomona swap meet, great show probably the best project car swap meet I have attended in the last 35 years. Looks like the hobby is starting at the beginning again. My advice is to hang on to your Tri-five or classic! Who knows it may soon bring big money like those muscle cars of the 60’s & 70’s.

Chuck Thomas