By Butch Chaffer, with thanks to HMM’s Ray Bohacz for excerpts & ideas
I, as do most of us, do expect those who swing wrenches for a living to execute proper mechanical procedure and exhibit a level of basic automotive knowledge. And the same standard should apply to an enthusiast who works on his own car. The following is a list of major peeves (or big no-no’s) that have been noted over time while observing work by professionals and enthusiasts alike.

DIRTY CARBURETOR: When not clean and varnish-free, air bleeds, emulsion tubes and passages do not function as designed, and performance and engine drivability suffer. A gummy, dirty carb is commonly seen on beautifully detailed muscle cars that are driven. The pros aren’t immune either, as many times I’ve seen mechanics replace air filters and ignore the filthy carburetor underneath. Carb cleaner is still cheap and easy to use.

HANGING BRAKE CALIPER: Any mechanic worth his salt recognizes that a brake caliper is not meant to swing from a rubber brake line during repairs.  Use a wire, or rope, or bungee; anything to keep the strain off the hose. OK, some of you say “B.S., I’ve always done that with no problem”. Of course, the weakened crimp or slight hose stretch is never thought of when the hose fails a year later on a panic stop (musta’ been a rock or bad hose). But hey, you saved 2 minutes on the job.

HOISTING ENGINES: There are chains, straps, and steel cables meant to connect your prize to your hoist. OK, this is aimed mostly at the enthusiast, as most mechanics don’t want the liability. But using clothesline, fan belts, or romex house wire (yep, seen them all) to support a suspended engine really borders on gross stupidity. The obvious damage to the engine and/or vehicle when it breaks, and it will, is only surpassed by the potential injury to yourself or buddy (should one still be in the area). ‘Nuff said on that!!

WHEEL BEARINGS: Proper care is needed for long life of front wheel bearings; correct lubricant, adjusted to a specified pre-load, and kept in a clean environment when removed for brake service. Contamination by placing it on an old rag, inside a wheel cover, or around a dirty work area is a sure way to entice a future roadside replacement session, or worse. Wrap in a clean paper towel or virgin rag until ready for greasing and replacement.

TIMING LIGHTS: Unless you are working on a 1920’s, 30’s, or 40’s stocker, you have pretty much moved past mediocre ignition requirements on your ride. Modern automotive engines are amazingly efficient and powerful for their size. This is due in no small part to the precise spark control designed into these power plants. Long gone are the days of “timing by ear” for the best performance and drivability of your vehicle. Unless, of course, your expectations from that nice engine you installed is just “pretty close, good enough”. A decent timing light with a ‘dial-back’ feature is not expensive, is easy to use, and should be a part of every enthusiast’s tool box. Poor timing, even if not readily noticeable in your everyday driving, affects your exhaust emissions, gas mileage, plug life, oil life and even engine temp. Every decent mechanic and performance tech uses a timing light. It separates the winners from the losers. Even the experts aren’t that good at guessing.

DISTRIBUTOR CAM LUBE: Nothing wrong with that original classic that still uses points. In limited use of a few hundred miles a year they work fine. But a little maintenance knowledge is needed, especially for those who grew up with electronic ignitions and now have a classic with old school breaker points. The breaker arm on these points have, or should have, a felt pad that wipes the rotor cam ahead of the rubbing block. This pad contains lube that keeps the wear on the rubbing block to a minimum. Often this pad is missing or dry. It should be lightly coated with that grease in the little capsule that came with the points, as well as a thin film on the cam lobes, a must if the points have no pad. Point gap affects the timing and coil saturation, so maintaining proper gap over time is essential. The rubbing block can be worn away in a few hundred miles without proper lubrication. Lost that capsule? Auto stores such as NAPA have small tubes of distributor cam lube….a lifetime supply. Emergency alternative? Try a drop of engine oil off the dipstick onto your finger to apply a thin film in the cam lobe.

HAPPY MOTORING…..BE SAFE…..WORK SMART……HAVE FUN